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Bar a handful of physical fashion shows, this season, like most fashion weeks so far, Copenhagen Fashion Week brought us three days of live digital events. Brands such as Rixo, Rodebjer, Ganni and Nynne put their creative hats on to deliver their collections in the format of short films, lookbooks, and talks. While there is nothing like the adrenalin of watching models presenting new season outfits IRL, there’s no denying the comfort of watching everything from the comfort of your own home, in a bikini, because heawtave.
Plus, there is the fact that everyone could access the shows via the CPHFW website, not just industry insiders, a further step towards the democratisation of fashion. With that in mind, here were the standout moments from the SS21 collections.
GANNI teamed up with Levi’s
Carrying on with GANNI’s aim to be more sustainable, creative director Ditte collaborated with Levi’s® on an array of low-footprint hemp and cotton mix styles, giving classic denim products a hint of Scandi DNA. The iconic two-pocket shirt gets reworked into an oversized, blown-up dress, while a pair of jeans is reinvented as a high-waisted skirt that almost touches the ankles. Launching in the spring of 2021, the capsule sits alongside the rest of the collection, which has been inspired by optimism, and translated into feel-good garments such as disco dresses and voluminous shirts.
Brøgger blurred gendre barriers
In its short film, the label explored ‘The Other Side’, blending masculinity and femininity together. Stepping away from the traditional Danish minimalism, the designs for SS21 presented a mix of masculine tailoring, pops of colour on slouchy poplin shirt dresses and romantic sheer gowns.
Rixo went Scandi
The cult UK label adapted its signature bold colours and prints to the Scandi crowd. A touch more subtle, the collection featured picnic pastels on some of the brand’s classic silhouettes. as well as bright floral prints (it is Rixo after all), gingham and fun patchworks.
Samsøe Samsøe celebrated diversity
In its show notes, the Danish brand explained, ‘With this year having an immense stamp on the world history, we realized we needed to go back in time – dig deeper, and analyze ourselves and our actions as well. With words such as glocal, diversity, inclusion, and camaraderie being a part of our moodboards and ethics for the past few seasons – it really became the ignition for pushing this collection to what it actually has become – a story of local love.’
With that in mind, not only were there cross cultural references within the collection (prints, casual silhouettes, pyjama styles), but the garments were modeled by locals too.
Nynne’s SS21 collection was an ode to London and Copenhagen
Designer Nynne Kunde’s signature lean minimalistic lines, synonymous with her Scandinavian roots, are complimented for SS21 with the vibrant colours and details that London’s cosmopolitan energy – Kunde’s studio had briefly relocated there. This showed in designs that empowered the female form, be in through the cult Diana dress re-created as a jumpsuit for summer, a subtle tie dye design or blue gradients.
Rodebjer found creativity in an uncertain world
‘The Rodebjer Spring Summer 2021 collection stems from the healing energy of creativity. To find fresh meaning in ancient wisdom, amidst an uncertain world,’ the press release for the show reveals, and you can see this in the subtle folklore hints thanks to prints inspired by Ukrainian Paraska Plytka-Horytsvit, stylised with big sleeves, shoulder pads and feminine silhouettes.
Baum & Pferdgarten embraced individuality
One of the few to host a live fashion show, B&P hosted an intimate audience of 50, while streaming its collection live on Instagram, a format that ‘was all about being present and sharing a moment in time and space’. The SS21 celebrated individuality, taking its theme from the 1976 The Man Who Fell To Earth, starring David Bowie. Think a woman fallen to Earth, with no concept of following any trends or conventions. I loved the earthy tones, pops of vinyl and colour on boxy jackets, and modern checks.
Copenhagen practiced social responsibility
For Copenhagen Fashion Week, Mercedes-Benz partnered with Helena Christensen for a shoot on wearing face mask during the pandemic. The model wore looks from five Danish designers’ new collections along with face masks, demonstrating the importance of wearing a mask to stop COVID-19 spreading, and how they can even be elevated to a piece of iconic design.
Anti-racism talks were hosted
CPHFW took action against racism by hosting anti-racism talks each day, broadcast digitally, around subjects such as the Anti Racist Practices in the Scandinavian Fashion Industry, Scandinavia’s first black owned model agency and discussion about the importance and value of representation within fashion practices.